Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Memories of Fakir

When I was working Fakir in February I did not have this blog. A bit of a shame really since Fakir is on my 2013 To-Do list that is posted below. Don't worry though. This is why there is such a thing as a camera and my own memory.

I heard about Fakir from my friend Leigh, who described it as "thuggish." In Colorado I had never heard of a route being described as thuggish, but since she also advised me to bring small gear, at least one draw to clip some old pin, and a crash pad, I knew this climb was not going to be anything close to average. 

As I was hiking up to the climb for the first time I was doubting the need for a crash pad because sure the bottom may be hard, but if I can get just one piece in my belayer should be able to catch me. Should being the key word. We got to the base of the climb and I set up the pad, racked up, and got ready for what looked like a pretty moderate finger crack that was only about 30' tall. 

My first impressions of this climb could not have been more wrong. It took me close to half an hour just to get myself off the ground. The beta was very particular and to be honest, that crack was not exactly moderate. The crash pad did its job as I took fall after fall just trying to get up to what looked like a good section of rock where I could place some gear. I eventually got that piece in and proceeded to fall repetitively on only a #5 nut. My friend Mike had the unfortunate opportunity to belay me for this process, and we had to anchor him about four feet away so I wouldn't keep kicking him when I fell. This climb was successfully whooping my ass, and I was 10 feet off the ground. 
Rejected

Eventually I made my way to the top, set up a top rope, and lowered down to try to figure out how to climb this 12 that looked like an easy 11 and felt like a 13. Slowly but surely I figured out the beta for the first crux that was right off the ground, and the middle 50% of the climb. By the time I got to the second crux I was tired, hungry, and cold (lets not forget this was in early February). I knew what I thought I would have to do but just wasn't able to do it at the time. We took the rope and anchor down and headed home. Fakir 1, Aaron 0.

A week later Alexis and I went back out to Fakir for round 2. Yet again I didn't think a pad would be necessary, but this time because we had to hike through thigh deep snow to get there. We got to the climb and I got to work refining beta and working the moves I was unable to do the week before. I quickly figured out an even better way to start the climb and get through the first crux, and could cruise the middle section with relative ease. That last crux was absolutely killing me however. I set up the TR and began to work that sequence over and over. Finally I realized there was a slightly hidden hold that was so much better that the rest, but farther away. Que another beta re-work and I had my sequence. I was able to do it two or three times then I retrieved my gear, pulled the rope, and got ready for the send attempts.

Seems like good climbing weather...

My first attempt went really well and I was about to get to the "rest" right below the second crux but then wasted energy forgetting where in the crack my micro nut went, my foot blew, and I fell. I took about half an hour to rest and psych myself up, then got ready to try again. I felt good this time. I knew what to do and how to do it, the sun was warming myself as well as the rock, and I was completely focused on the climb. I got off the ground and pulled the first crux through the flared finger crack perfectly. I got to the middle lay back section and was cruising, but then my left foot popped and I felt myself start to go down. I managed to keep on, reset my foot and keep going. I got the .75 cam in without a problem and kept going. I hit the crimp out right, put in the micro, and still kept going. I struggled to get to the rest below the final crux, but got it eventually and clipped the pin. This was it, two more moves and I had climbed my first 12 on gear. I took a deep breath and climbed right on through that crux like I had done it a hundred times. Clipping those chains was one of the most satisfying feelings I have ever had, and I had Alexis hold me there for a minute so I could take it all in.
Fakir is the thin line going up and right.

Fakir was so important to me because it was my first 12 on gear, and my first time going through the whole process of working the beta and the gear on a route then trying to put it all together. Sending this climb opened the doors for the rest of the hard gear routes in the canyon, and I am more than excited for them!

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